Joe ..

I’d shoot in compressed raw mode. As far as I can see, the difference between compressed and uncompressed is kinda theoretical in how it would affect image quality.

Active D lighting wouldn’t affect me, since I shoot in RAW, and I don’t use Nikon Capture or NX for my workflow because of the sloooow speed. And if I wanted D Lighting to a Nikon raw file, I could always add it afterwards using those two programs.

Neil.

I was wondering if you had any thoughts on the active D lighting? also under the nef recording settings it seems to me for weddings at least that lossless compressed 12bit is the optimal way to go… thoughts?

the picture control settings are out of this world and will take some time to master but i have a feeling that unless your shooting jpg none of them matter…

*Autofocus - Dynamic Af 3D tracking*
a3 - set to 51 points (3D tracking)

Back focus selector must be on the middle “dynamic AF” switch focus on continuous

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*Sensor cleaning*
Menu , Setup menu (the wrench) , Clean image sensor,

You will then have the option to clean it right then and there or have it clean at a few different settings.

I personally have mine set to clean when I shut it off, because there is a .005 second delay when it does it so when I was picking settings I figured there may be ONE time I want the camera up and running THEN! and would get mad at the minor delay.

There is VERY little power consumption doing this. Its a non-issue so don’t even worry about it. NOW.. it does not REMOVE the dust (if any) .. it simply falls down so if you have a dirty camera make sure you clean it out occasionally as well.

Set it and don’t worry about it.

I’m going through them now and have a couple of comments:

b4 — Easy Exposure Compensation.

My preference now ON w/Auto Reset (I used to no like this due to accidental adjustment). The interesting thing about this settings is that it will NOT change the setting held by the +/- exposure compensation button which is how it gets away with clearing itself when you shut the camera off (in other words, there’s nothing to save). I don’t like when I forget that I have left my exposure compensation to something other than 0 when I turn my camera back on minutes or hours later so I keep +/- button at 0 and only use the wheel to adjust exposure. What’s more interesting is that in this mode, the easy exposure compensation setting is ADDED onto the +/- button compensation–which can have some interesting uses such as using the +/- button to set the fixed compensation reference point (if you are basing it on a bride’s dress for example), then working from there with the wheel. It’s sort of like a temporary alternative to using the Fine Tune Optimal Exposure when used this way.

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Playback Menu — Image Review

I’m not sure where you have this set, but since you like to chimp alot, I suspect you have it ON. I like it OFF because by having it ON, it means that you can’t move your focus selector while the review is active–forcing you to turn it off with half-press of the shutter just. The irritating scenario goes like this: Choose focus point–>focus–>take shot–>try to choose another focus point–>dang it, it’s not working–>press shutter half-way–>now choose focus point–>focus–>take shot. I can’t tell you how many shots I’ve missed because of this. OFF is the only viable choice for me now.

Cheers,
Nick

I do have a few questions for you regarding using some of your techniques with the Nikon D300…

I know you are a big fan of using ‘Manual’ mode to control and set your background exposure with TTL flash. I’ve read your postings on “dragging the shutter” and the more recent update on includes using aperture and ISO as well to dial in background exposure. My question is, how does the ‘Auto ISO’ feature within the D300 play into setting these parameters while in manual mode? Doesn’t it float around, and at times, work against what you’re trying to do?

Lastly, what metering mode are you using with this technique (and why), matrix? If so, when would you use center weighted/spot?

Thanks so much for all your contributions!

Scot

Hi there Bennet ..

You have to keep in mind that Auto FP has nothing to do with the TTL BL / TTL settings on your speedlight.

Auto FP is the high-speed flash sync mode.

TTL BL / TTL relates to how the camera and flash metering system works in tandem with the available light metering.

Neil.